Amanda Heisner is serious about wine. But the Mineral Point dairy farmer is a far cry from the stereotype of the haughty wine connoisseur, like Paul Giamatti played in the movie "Sideways."

Along with other recent converts to good wine, Heisner is attracted by the explosion of quality wine produced all over the globe, much of which is reasonably priced, sampled and sold in places that range from supermarkets, convenience stores and liquor stores to unusual venues like pharmacies and gift shops.

She's part of a rising tide of savvy new wine sippers, turning on its head the notion of who an educated wine lover is, or should be.

On a recent summer night, Heisner, who farms with her husband near Mineral Point, enjoyed a girls' night out with her sisters and a group of friends at Fleming's Steakhouse and Wine Bar at Hilldale. They were part of a special invitation-only "Night of Discovery" tasting for Fleming's customers that featured wine manager Richard Chapman discussing wine and food.

For Heisner, it's only natural to be interested in wine.

"Wine is so perfect with cheese," she explained. "On our farm we're aware of the impact soil and grass have on the taste of our herd's milk. That's the way it is with wine, too. It's really interesting."

Heisner and her group were part of a crowd of about 50 customers, fairly evenly divided among men and women, with the majority appearing to be in their 30s and 40s. They chatted in small groups on the patio where a splashing fountain partially drowned out the sounds of traffic on nearby University Avenue.

The atmosphere was informal, as Chapman moved from group to group, describing each wine and its distinctive characteristics. Far from snooty experts self-consciously sniffing, sipping and trying to upstage each other with their knowledge, the crowd was friendly and curious.

Newlyweds Skylar and Stefanie Primm, both in their 20s, said they were eager to learn about the five wines, which ranged from a California sauvignon blanc paired with crab gazpacho to a Columbia Valley Riesling paired with white chocolate-covered grapes.

"I guess as soon as I was old enough, it seemed cool to learn about wine," said Stefanie Primm, a community organizer. "I went to tastings at Barriques, and there were half-price wine nights at Cafe Montmartre that were fun, and not too expensive."

Now the couple lives in Middleton, and they attend wine tastings at the Wine Boutique, 6220 University Ave., where they are also part of a Wine of the Month Club. They like the fact that owner Kelly Gilboy chooses wine specifically for their tastes each month.

At a recent tasting at the Wine Boutique, a crowd of about 30 was dressed in jeans and shorts, flip-flops and running shoes while store manager Peter Thomas hosted a discussion of five pinot noirs, ranging from a $10.99 bottle from northern Italy to a California wine from the southern end of Napa and Sonoma counties that went for $23.99 a bottle.

Better wine, lower price

At the grocery store, inexpensive brands of wine like Australia's Yellow Tail and California's Charles Shaw -- often known as "Two Buck Chuck" -- have been flowing off the shelves in recent years in torrents.

But Jeffrey Calder, vice president of sales for General Beverage Corp., said wines in the $12 to $18 price range also have been increasingly popular, showing the largest percentage of growth in recent years in the Madison area wine market.

According to Brandon Scholz, president of the Wisconsin Grocers Association, "Wine today is appealing to a broad range of palates and pocketbooks." He called the growth of wine sales in grocery stores "explosive" and "huge in capital letters," but didn't give specific sales data for local markets.

Across the U.S., there are simply more people drinking wine than a generation ago.

According to the Wine Institute, a trade association dedicated to promoting the California wine industry, California wine sales to the U.S. market reached a record high 457 million gallons in 2007, part of a 14-year trend of consecutive increases.

The institute also reported that all U.S. sales of wine, including wine produced in California, other states and foreign countries increased by 4 percent over the previous year for a total retail value of $30 billion, making the United States the largest retail wine market in the world.

In Wisconsin, a stumbling economy appears to be taking a toll on wine consumption in other parts of the state. But sales in the Dane County area have actually seen a 5 or 6 percent uptick in the last year, General Beverage's Calder said.

"The Madison market has always been a little different," he said. "It's hard to go into a restaurant here where there's not wine on every table."

Calder said he's seen an intriguing trend among people in their 20s, who are interested in both the image and the quality of the wine they're drinking.

"They are curious, and they're much more ready to have wine (as) a regular part of their lives than people their age a generation ago. And they're not afraid to buy wines in the $15 to $20 range where you really get a lot of bang for your buck," he said.

Schooling the palate

Wine sales are driven by consumers who are increasingly savvy about wines, Calder said. Educated sippers not only know what tastes great, but also what constitutes a bargain.

Karen Eigenberger, an owner at Steve's Liquor, 8302 Mineral Point Road, said she sees plenty of customers who are quite knowledgeable when it comes to wine and food.

"We're probably a little skewed by the customers coming through our door. They're generally not people grabbing wine off the grocery shelves," she said.

"We're seeing more people socializing in the kitchen, and learning that wine and food naturally go together. That just seems like such a healthy way to go," she added.

In today's market, she estimated that wine sales now account for about 50 to 60 percent of the daily sales at Steve's, which has been in business for about 50 years in Madison. That's a big change from the days when sales were dominated by beer and liquor.

Jerry Mogensen, an owner at Star Liquor, 1209 Williamson St., said he feels fortunate to be in business in a place like Madison where his customers recognize the romance of the wine business.

"We sell a lot of wine from smaller, independent wineries, sometimes with just four or five cases from a particular vineyard," he said. "We've got customers who are quite cosmopolitan, and have traveled, have tried wines in other countries. That kind of customer really appreciates what we're trying to do."

He noted that consumers are looking beyond the merlots, chardonnays and cabernets of the past. Now, customers are curious about many varieties of wine and grapes from all parts of the world, how they taste and what kind of food they enhance.

"Now they come in and ask about viognier, vino verde, chenin blanc. It's a wonderful thing to sell wine in today's climate," he said.

The democratization of wine

So how are all these new wine enthusiasts learning the taste, lingo and lineage of their beverage of choice?

Wine tastings -- and beer and spirits tastings, too -- have been growing in popularity over the last decade.

Few places have contributed more locally to the democratization of wine than Barriques, the Madison area's popular chain of five wine and coffee shops, which opened its Wine Cave on Monroe Street about 10 years ago.

With its "Wall of 100" -- drinkable wines for $10 or less -- and nearly 50 wine and spirits tastings this summer alone, Barriques has turned on thousands to the pleasures and nuances of drinking wine from all regions of the world, and at a wide range of price points.

Co-owner and wine aficionado Finn Berge, who can speak for hours (and does) about how local conditions, climate and handling have an impact on the taste of grapes and wine, said that one of Barriques' goals is to allow wine drinkers to be adventurous.

"We want to help people use the wall as a library of sorts: you can give a wine you're not familiar with a try and you're not breaking your budget," Berge said.

Wine tastings are a common practice at shops like Barriques and restaurants like Fleming's, the Madison Club and Johnny Delmonico's. But increasingly, you can find them in more unusual places as well, from local grocery stores to a Greenway Station gift store and even a west side pharmacy famous for its Halloween costumes.

The explosion in wine tastings and other special events came thanks to a Wisconsin law enacted in 2002 that allows vendors with Class A liquor licenses to offer samples of their products.

It may seem a bit odd to see wine poured into little medicine cups on a table in the toothpaste and mouthwash aisle at Mallatt Pharmacy at 3506 Monroe St. But pharmacist and owner Mike Flint says neighbors and customers of the near west side business love Friday nights between 4 and 6 when they can sample a wine while picking up ibuprofen or Band-Aids.

"It's really informal and low-key, but the tastings help us get a sense of what our customers like and want," Flint said. "We're not connoisseurs, but over the years we've learned what appeals to us. We get some really good bargains, and we put a guarantee behind what we sell," he added.

Mallatts also is known for its extensive costume rental business, and for selling theatrical make-up and supplies.

"The wine kind of fits with the rest of our business. We have fun, and the tastings add a festive atmosphere," Flint said. "There aren't many pharmacies where you can pick up a prescription, rent a costume and buy a bottle of wine along with a rubber chicken."

Kathie Retelle, owner of Savoir Faire, a gift and card store with a wine bar in the Greenway Station shopping center in Middleton, has twice weekly wine tastings, on Wednesdays from 5:30 to 7 p.m. and Saturdays from 2 to 4 p.m. She often invites wine distributors or vineyard owners from across the globe to stop in to chat with customers and talk about their wine.

"We have a group of regulars who come in, and it's almost like a little family," Retelle said.

Diane Mandell, one of the wine tasting regulars, said she has traveled extensively but has never come across a store with an atmosphere like the one at Savoir Faire.

"People come in from all walks of life. They talk about the wine, learn a little bit, share a lot of recipes. I can't think of any place around that's like it," she said.

"I deliberately don't go to other wine tastings," Retelle said. "Ours are more about the socializing."

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LOCAL WINE TASTINGS

Madison area wine tastings run the gamut from free samplings in grocery store aisles to reservation-only formal tastings that cost $25 or $30 per person and include specially prepared food selections.

Here's a brief sampling of what's on tap in the next couple of months. It's a good idea to call ahead at wine stores or restaurants with scheduled special events, because space is often limited and sellouts are fairly common.

Johnny Delmonico's, 130 S. Pinckney St., will host a tasting of sparkling wines on Aug. 19 beginning at 7 p.m. with general manager and sommelier Craig Madigan. Call for reservations and cost at 257-8325.

Barriques has five locations, and all have tastings in the next couple of weeks. They are scheduled from 5:30 to 8:30 p.m. and include: Wine Cave, 1831 Monroe St., 284-9463 -- Best Vintage in 100 Years: 2007 German Wines ($13), Friday, Aug. 8, and Saturday, Aug. 9; White Burgundy ($14), Aug. 15 & 16; Wall of 100 ($9), Aug. 22 & 23; and Napa vs. Sonoma cabernets ($14), Aug. 29 & 30.

Wine & Spirits, 1901 Cayuga St., Middleton, 824-9463 -- Moscato d'Asti & Prosecco ($12), Friday, Aug. 8; and staff favorites ($12), Aug. 22.

Coffee Trader, 127 W. Washington Ave., 268-6264 -- Italians ($9), Friday, Aug. 8; and organic wines ($9), Aug. 22.

Barriques Market, 5957 McKee Road, Fitchburg, 277-9463 -- Blind wine tasting ($12), Aug. 16; and merlot ($13), Aug. 30.

Barriques, 8410 Old Sauk Road, 828-9502 -- Big, bold reds ($9), Aug. 15.

Tastings at the Wine Boutique, 6220 University Ave., Middleton (232-7040), in August are from 5 to 7 p.m. Thursday evenings and cost $5. On Aug. 14, sample the best of cabernet sauvignon and sauvignon blanc with speaker Peter Thomas. On Aug. 21, Ara Bella Winery's Heila Huddleston discusses new finds from her recent visit to South Africa. On Aug. 28, try fun and fine wines for end-of-summer barbecues.

Fleming's Steakhouse and Wine Bar at Hilldale will host a charity event on Sept. 20 from noon to 3 p.m. that will feature tastings off of the restaurant's remarkable list of 100 wines available by the glass. The event, which will include hors d'oeuvres, is $25 per person, and will benefit American Red Cross flood relief efforts.

Trader Joe's, 1864 Monroe St., has a free featured wine tasting from 4 to 7 p.m. every Tuesday.

Mallatt Pharmacy, 3506 Monroe St., will resume its free Friday night wine tastings in September.

Savoir Faire in Greenway Station in Middleton hosts free wine tastings from 5:30 to 7 p.m. Wednesdays, and from 2 to 5 p.m. Saturdays.

Other venues with wine tastings planned for the fall include the Liquor Baron on East Washington Avenue and the Tasting Room in Monona.

-- Susan Troller