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Gyros and fries are Greek food favorites at the Trader Gus Shell Station in Westport. Diners can eat indoors or out, depending on the weather. - Michelle Stocker/The Capital Times

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Trader Gus Shell Station in Westport may be the only place in America where "fill 'er up" could mean a full tank of gasoline or a homemade Greek dinner.

Owner and chef Gus Kyriakopoulos admits the combination gas station, convenience store and Greek restaurant is unusual.

"Honestly, I haven't heard of any other place like this," he said.

Kyriakopoulos grew up in a rural area in Greece where his family owned a Greek taverna, so it was no surprise he would gravitate toward the restaurant business when he came to Madison in the early 1970s. In 2006, after many years of managing Parthenon Gyros on State Street, he was thrilled to buy into his own business with a partner.

There was only one problem: his partner wanted a gas station, and Kyriakopolous wanted a restaurant. They compromised, and did both.

The restaurant portion of the store, known as Athens Gyros, features about a dozen Greek specialties that Kyriakopolous and his wife Angela make from scratch. On a recent weekday at lunch, both indoor and outdoor seating areas were nearly full with a diverse and enthusiastic crowd that appeared to include tradesmen, neighbors and travelers.

"People around here have been very, very supportive," Kyriakopolous said.

Customer favorites include a savory gyros sandwich (mixed beef and lamb on pita bread with tomatoes, onions and cucumber yogurt dressing for $5.95), spanakopita (spinach and feta cheese in puff pastry for $5.95) and souvlaki sandwich (grilled chicken or pork, served on pita with cucumber yogurt, tomatoes and onions for $5.95), as well as a luscious dessert called galaktoboureko (custard in filo dough drizzled with honey-lemon syrup for $2.25).

On Kyriakopolous' recommendation, I paired a gyro (pronounced "yeero") sandwich with an order of exceptionally good french fries for a total of $7.45.

There are a total of about 15 Greek specialties on the menu, plus a half-dozen typical grill sandwiches, including a good-looking burger and grilled ham and cheese. The restaurant also serves wine, including Greek village wine (choose red, rose or retsina: white, resin-flavored) by the glass, and some bottled domestic and imported beer.

If you're inspired by the food, or the intoxicating blend of smells at Trader Gus/Athens Gyros, there's a well-stocked shelf and cold case with unusual Greek groceries, from Kalamata olive oil to Greek coffee, pastas and spices. They even sell Greek coffee pots, and elegant little Greek coffee cups and plates.

Trader Gus Shell Station and Athens Gyros

Address: 5420 Willow Road, Waunakee

Web site: www.athensgyros.com

Phone: 249-6720

Hours: 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily

Note: Catering and special orders available.