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Greek-influenced Plaka Taverna and Ouzeria keeps Cleveland's appeal

August 12, 2008

The former Cleveland's Diner, near the Capitol Square, has been reimagined as the Greek taverna, Plaka Taverna and Ouzeria. - Jacob Ela photo

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Although an historic Madison diner has been reborn as a Greek taverna, its fabled greasy spoon breakfasts, and much of its clientele, is still intact.

The former Cleveland's Diner, 410 E. Wilson St., is now officially open as Plaka Taverna and Ouzeria, where the specialties of the house will be Greek-influenced small plates and grilled entrees.


For many longtime customers, it's important that Plaka is still serving the signature Cleveland's breakfasts: eggs, toast, American fries, pancakes and French toast, breakfast sandwiches and ham, bacon and sausage, all beginning every day at 6 a.m. except Monday, when the restaurant is closed.

Still owned by Telly and Beth Fatsis, who have operated Cleveland's for the last 13 years, the old diner now seats about 50 at a new bar and at new tables in a completely refurbished space.

Changes, Fatsis said, have included an entirely reimagined interior with new windows, textured walls painted a rustic red, a patterned, dark brown ceiling, new flooring and the new bar space.

The space seems larger, and the hours and menu have expanded, too.

Beginning Aug. 19, Plaka will be open from 4 p.m. until 11 p.m. on weeknights for appetizers and dinners, and from 4 p.m. to midnight on Fridays and Saturdays. The restaurant will still open at 6 every morning except Monday, and will serve breakfast and lunch through 1:30 p.m.

"At lunch time there will be a casual Greek menu posted on the chalkboard with gyros, salads and spanakopita (spinach pie) with things like fries and onion rings," Fatsis said.

He said the emphasis on the evening menu would be smaller plates than those being served at the couple's other Greek restaurant, Atlantis Taverna, 239 E. Main St., in Sun Prairie, which will continue to have a more traditional Greek sit-down dinner menu.


"This is lighter Greek taverna fare. We hope people will stop in with a group of friends, have a couple of drinks, and order several small plates to try together," Fatsis said. He explained that in Greece a taverna is often a small, sociable restaurant where people meet each other to talk and share their food and wine.

"We'd like to keep meals pretty light and mostly grilled, with things like lamb kebabs, chicken kebabs and a seafood item," he said.

He explained that he and his wife chose the name Plaka because it's what the restaurant and entertainment district in Athens is called.

"There are some parallels, too, because the area sits just below the Acropolis, like we are a few blocks down from the Capitol Square," he added.

The former diner was closed for several months during reconstruction but since reopening about three weeks ago, Fatsis said he's seen many of the old customers filing back in.

A Madison native who grew up in the nearby Marquette neighborhood and graduated from East High School, Fatsis greets many of the Cleveland regulars with a warm handshake and lots of personal attention.

"Now we're getting our old customers back and a new group, too," he said. "I think the new design reaches out to them. There's a lot of competition in the restaurant business on this side of the Square, but it does make the area really interesting. From when we first opened in 1995, it's the difference between night and day."

On a recent morning, Madison residents Jeff and Sarah Goldstein, and their daughter, Julie Sills, shared breakfast at Plaka on their way to the airport.

"Well, it's been the transformation of a diner into a taverna, but as long as we can still get breakfast, it's all good," Jeff Goldstein said. He said their family began coming to Cleveland's about two decades ago when citizen-supported radio station WORT/FM sponsored a regular morning broadcast from the diner.